The Surfer's Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick

Born in 1976, hailing from Narrabeen on the northern beaches of Sydney, Oscar "Ozzie" Wright burst onto the scene in the mid-1990s and swiftly ascended to global surf fame—never in contests, but nearly always doing something imaginative, like flying through the air, doing spell-casting things with the tube, or surfing remote Indo in a pair of handcrafted bat wings. Wright appeared in a number of Volcom-produced videos, among them BS!, Psychic Migrations, Lobotomy, and One Hundred and Fifty Six Tricks. A prolific maker of artwork in a variety of mediums including painting, drawing, sculpture, collage, ceramics, furniture, skate ramps, film, and video, Wright is also lead singer of the Goons of Doom, an experimental, piss-taking punk band. In this episode of Soundings, Wright sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about the differences between North and South Narrabeen, airs, childhood memories, the influence of grunge, dealing with criticism, style, unlocking the self through creativity, going on tour with his band, and finding fun in subpar waves. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in Hawaii in 1961, Danny Kwock rode his first waves at Waikiki when he was ten. Surfing took a brief hiatus when he moved with his family to the San Fernando Valley, but picked up soon thereafter when they moved to Newport Beach, right at Wedge, which is where Kwock made his mark, charging big waves and becoming one of the brightest, flashiest surfers of the Echo Beach scene, wearing pink boardshorts and riding polka dot twin-fins when most Californians followed a far more understated ethos. Kwock was featured on the cover of Surfer and Surfing magazines in the early 1980s, did a short stint on the world pro tour, but soon became a forerunner to what we now know of as a professional "freesurfer." But he also saw the virtues of the long game. When the opportunity arose to work in a behind-the-scenes role at Quiksilver, he jumped at it, and he hit his straps as the marketing director, a position he held from the early 1980s up until the mid-aughts. (It should be noted that Kwock's relationship with Quiksilver began a few years earlier, when he and his Echo Beach buddy Preston Murray got caught stealing boardshorts from the warehouse.) Kwock's early team captain/marketing position started in what were wild days. The industry grew fast, and he played an instrumental role in that growth. In this episode of Soundings, Kwock talks with Jamie Brisick about meeting Duke Kahanamoku, surfing Wedge, the Echo Beach era, fashion, negotiating contracts, Andy Warhol, the wild days of the surf industry, and signing Kelly Slater to Quiksilver. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

For more than two decades, Sachi Cunningham has been training her lens on women and the pioneers of big-wave surfing. After earning a BA in history from Brown University and a Masters of Journalism from UC Berkeley, Cunningham started the first video team at the LA Times, where she produced the award-winning series Chasing the Swell, which documents the first ever Big Wave World Tour. She was the first person, male or female, ever to have water shots published of wily Ocean Beach. Other "firsts" include serving as the first female board member of Save the Waves Coalition and first woman to receive the Wave Saver Award from the non-profit. She documented the first women's heats at the Mavericks WickrX Invitational, the Puerto Escondido Big Wave Challenge, the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, and The Eddie. Cunningham has been included in both Surfline's list of top filmmakers and Surfer magazine's list of top photographers. Her feature-length documentary, SheChange, about the quest for pay equity in big-wave surfing, is presently in post-production, and has been featured in the New York Times and on the Today show. A mental health advocate and cancer survivor, Cunningham lives with her husband and daughter in the Outer Sunset neighborhood of San Francisco, where she's a Professor Emerita at San Francisco State University. In this episode of Soundings, Cunningham sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about shooting from the water at Ocean Beach and Maverick's, the importance of journalism, her quiver, motherhood, and her battle with cancer. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in Seattle, Washington, in 1949, Randy Rarick moved with his family to Hawaii when he was five. He started surfing at age 10, under the tutelage of the Waikiki Beach Boys. He was a Hawaiian state junior champ, and made the semifinals of the 1970 World Championships in Australia. In 1976, at age 26, Randy and 1968 world champion Fred Hemmings founded International Professional Surfing, aka the IPS, which linked together what at the time were fragmented pro events around the world. They established a ratings system and a world tour, which ended with the crowning of a world champion. In 1983, Randy spearheaded the Triple Crown of Surfing, which linked together the three North Shore events, and also crowned a champion. Randy would helm the Triple Crown for the next 30 years. Randy is also a surfboard shaper. He was taught how to shape by Dick Brewer and George Downing, and went on to make boards for Surf Line Hawaii, Dewey Weber, and Lightning Bolt. While Randy might be one of the most widely traveled surfers of all time, having ridden waves in over 70 countries, he's called the North Shore home since 1969, and has lived in the same house at Sunset Beach for more than 50 years. He surfs out front, i.e., his backyard, regularly. In this episode of Soundings, Rarick sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about about the birth of the IPS and the Triple Crown, learning to shape from the masters, rating systems and standardization, surf purism, the importance of Hawaii, and spending a year traveling up the west coast of Africa. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Hailing from the central coast of New South Wales, Australia, Ross Clarke-Jones joined the ASP world tour in 1986, at age 19. He was good in the small waves that the tour typically competed in at that time. But when the surf jacked up to 20-plus feet in the 1986 Billabong Pro at Waimea Bay, Clarke-Jones heaved himself over leadges and exited the water as one of the world's great big waves surfers—and has held that position ever since. He's been a major force in nearly every Eddie, winning that coveted event in 2001. He's paddled Jaws, towed Mavericks, Nazare, and Shipstern Bluff, and pioneered several mutant, way-out-to-sea slabs. He was the subject of the 2006 documentary titled The Sixth Element: The Ross Clarke Jones Story, narrated by the late Dennis Hopper. He and Tom Carroll starred in Storm Riders, a big-wave surfing reality show on the Discovery Channel, which led to Storm Riders 3D, a feature-length documentary. In this episode of Soundings, Clarke-Jones sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about glory and catastrophe at Waimea Bay, manifestation, his lifelong relationship with Hawaii, racing sports cars, overcoming injury, maintaining motivation, dealing with fear, and the joys of small waves. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).