The Perfume Making Podcast

This week Karen follows on from the conversation she had about learning to evaluate your perfumes. She covers something that is done as a matter of course in the industry. It's something a lot of people, especially when they're new, don't really get - making more than one version of your fragrance. Or, in industry terms, making a mod. Karen explains why learning to be patient and tweaking your perfume gradually is an essential skillset and how to perfect the art of iteration. KEY TAKEAWAYS  Feeling disappointed with your first perfume draft is normal; instead of interpreting your setbacks as a lack of talent, treat each version as a learning step that even experienced perfumers face. Change only one element at a time and refrain from altering your original batch. Record each change and its impact on a spreadsheet so you can clearly track what makes things better or makes things worse. If you reach a creative block after many iterations, it’s fine to set a project aside and return later with a fresh perspective. Sometimes, solutions only emerge with time and new experience. Perfumery is a journey of constant learning and self-improvement. Make use of community resources and classes as needed, and keep up the habit of practice and iteration. BEST MOMENTS  “The truth is nobody makes a perfect perfume in one go….you are creating your first draft.” “Without a clear direction (a brief) you are not going to be able to evaluate anything - if you can't evaluate it, you are not going to be able to improve it.” “The whole point of creating mods, or iterations of a fragrance, is comparison.” VALUABLE RESOURCES In-Person Classes: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/studio-classes Fragrance For Skincare Course: https://www.onlineperfumeschool.com/creating-fragrance-for-skincare-products-online-course Last week´s evaluating your perfume episode - https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/evaluating-your-fragrances-how-to-judge-your-scent/id1693602939?i=1000738045728 Getting Started Guide: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/podcast-getting-started-guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/artisan-perfumery-mastermind ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/ Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/karengilbert/ Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/KarenGilbert.co.uk YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/@KarenGilbertPerfumeMaking Email - [email protected]  This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

Do you really know if your fragrance works? Or are you just hoping for compliments? In this episode, Karen reveals why friends and family are not likely to be giving you the feedback you really need. She shares the essential steps needed to truly evaluate your perfume - like a pro. Karen takes you through setting a clear brief and mastering technical checkpoints. She shares the tools and mindset that separate hobbyists from serious creators.  Tune in to transform the way you judge your scents and take yourself one step closer to making fragrances that always deliver. KEY TAKEAWAYS  The opinions of friends and family feel good, but their noses can´t be the final word. Often, they are biased and rarely fit your target demographic. Investing time in learning how to professionally evaluate your scents is essential. Without a clear goal for your scent, you’ll never know if you’ve hit the mark, so start every creation by writing out a solid brief and use a checklist to keep your evaluation honest and well organised. Don’t just sniff and forget. Track and assess your fragrance over hours to see how it really lasts, evolves, and performs on skin or in the bottle. You need to test for smoothness, strength, longevity, harmony, diffusion and evaluate it in the base and conditions your customer will actually be using your scent in. Sensory fatigue is real. Periodically, step away and reset your nose. Allow plenty of time to evaluate your scents. BEST MOMENTS  “Evaluation is a whole separate skill. You could be good at blending, you could be good at putting different materials together, but also still not know whether what you made actually works.” “If you don't know what you were intending to create, you're not going to know whether you hit that mark or not.” “Make yourself a little checklist that you can actually go through every time you create a fragrance, every time you do modifications.” EPISODE RESOURCES In-Person Course - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/studio-classes Fragrance For Skincare Course: https://www.onlineperfumeschool.com/creating-fragrance-for-skincare-products-online-course How to create a scent story episode - https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-and-why-to-create-a-scent-story/id1693602939?i=1000630627487 VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/podcast-getting-started-guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/artisan-perfumery-mastermind Website: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher, and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/ Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/karengilbert/ Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/KarenGilbert.co.uk YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/@KarenGilbertPerfumeMaking Email - [email protected]   This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

It’s easy to believe that the secret to creating great fragrances lies in having more materials - more naturals, more synthetics, more obscure aroma chemicals. But as Karen explains in this episode, the opposite is usually true. Expanding your organ too quickly can overwhelm your creativity, stall your progress, and make it harder to build the strong foundation you need to truly master the craft of perfumery. Karen breaks down exactly why “more” is rarely the answer, why many professionals still work with a limited palette, and how to experiment, build skill, confidence, and clarity by initially using a focused, small set of materials. KEY TAKEAWAYS In perfumery, progress comes from starting simple and structured learning - not from collecting hundreds of bottles. Most trained perfumers work with a tight palette that they fully understand. Don´t be tempted to start by exploring big scent concepts; they can lead you to collect unusual materials prematurely. Start by making simple scents first. Remember: most powerful or “interesting” materials only work in tiny amounts. Without practice and proper dilution, they can easily unbalance a blend. Start by practicing with a focused set of ingredients. Learn to dilute them correctly, carefully observe how each material and combination behaves and make notes. BEST MOMENTS “Weird, wacky, interesting materials do not make you more creative. They don't make you a better perfumer - knowing how to use them does.” “You are literally trying to build this whole city before you've built your shed in the garden.” “If you change everything in a formulation over and over again, you're going to keep going around in circles.” “You can own hundreds of materials and still be guessing and floundering, or you can have 20 core materials and be working with them and learning about how they interact with each other.” EPISODE RESOURCES Use the discount code shared during the show to master the 70 most important materials you need to build a strong skill foundation for your perfumer career by going here - Materials Mastery - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/materials-mastery Studio Classes - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/studio-classes Getting Started Guide - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/podcast-getting-started-guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind - https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/artisan-perfumery-mastermind ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher, and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/karengilbert/ Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/KarenGilbert.co.uk YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/@KarenGilbertPerfumeMaking This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

“You’ve made soup!” is a phrase French perfume teachers often say to their students. In the world of fragrance, soup refers to a perfume that smells muddy, flat, or undefined. But what causes a scent to turn into “soup,” and how can you prevent it? In this week’s episode, Karen breaks down the many ways a perfume can lose its clarity and character, often through well-intentioned choices that seem right at first. Tune in to learn the common pitfalls. KEY TAKEAWAYS One easy way to achieve a muddy scent is by constantly adding materials on top of each other, just because you like them. Karen explains why this is a bad idea.  Copying a notes list from a perfume you admire is another fast track to achieving a muddy scent. So why do people do it, and why should you avoid it? Understanding scent structure is crucial to creating a well-balanced perfume. Karen breaks down why this is and why it should be the first thing you master. Nose fatigue is a very real thing, and it can lead you to make crucial mistakes when creating a scent. Karen shares her top tips to avoid this trap. BEST MOMENTS  “Adding more materials won’t fix anything; it will just make your fragrance more dense and confusing.” “Sometimes a space in a formulation is what gives it its strength.” “Every time you make a formulation, make notes, and you will be moving forward.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Studio classes Materials Mastery Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

Karen recently went to the cinema, something she doesn’t do very often. However, on this one-off trip to see the new Bruce Springsteen film, something resonated with her. We often chase perfection, either from our own standards or from what we assume others expect from us, but sometimes, the real beauty lies in imperfection. In this week's episode, Karen is here to talk about how the thing you create might be more successful if you just let go and be true to yourself.  KEY TAKEAWAYS One of the main storylines of the new Springsteen film is how the record he created sounded raw and unfinished, but how that sound added to the beauty of it. Karen describes how you can apply this working method to your perfume creation.  Karen tells the story of Mark Buxton and how creating an accord based on the markets of Marrakech ended up launching a perfume brand. A lot of indie perfumers try to replicate the big commercial brands, but, as Karen points out, they are not your competition. Karen shares what really matters when creating your fragrances.  BEST MOMENTS  “Sometimes that raw first version might be exactly what it needs to be.” “If you try to make something more commercial, you're in danger of moving away from what you set out to achieve.” “Whatever the thing is that you create, if it expresses what you want it to express, that’s what it should be.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email     This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/