In today’s episode the Encyclopedia of Surfing’s Matt Warshaw discusses the risks of having surf history chronicled by a single man, who’s gotten short shrift on the EOS, how much and how little has changed in surf culture since the first magazine, an examination of pioneering female surf photographers, the first surfer to go at Backdoor, and why he got screamed at (and run over) on his most recent surf trip. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices