After Hours Skin Clinic

Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid separate scientific fact from marketing fiction to reveal the top 5 lifestyle and environmental factors actively breaking down your skin's collagen scaffolding. In this episode, Emma and Ellie examine how 95% of accelerated skin aging stems from UVA radiation, why perimenopausal hormone drops impact skin texture, and what sugar has to do with collagen loss. Plus, they explore the impact of urban air pollution (particulate matter) on pigmentation and share expert evidenced based ways to preserve and stimulate your collagen. Episode Highlights: Collagen Anatomy 101: How fibroblast cells manufacture your skin's scaffolding. The #1 Collagen Killer (UVA & Infrared): Why cloud-cover UV rays degrade collagen and elastin long before your skin burns. The Smoking & Vaping Factor: Why plastic surgeons test for nicotine before surgery due to compromised wound healing and micro-vascular constrictions. Hormones, HRT & Menopause: Differentiating between systemic hormone replacement benefits and estrogen creams. The Sugar-Glycation Connection: How high blood sugar stiffens collagen and why topical "anti-glycation" creams fail to reach deep dermal layers. The Hidden Enemy (Air Pollution): How PM2.5 and PM10 soot particles trigger oxidative stress, collagen breakdown, and dark spot formation. The ultimate collagen defense strategy. Key Questions Answered: What are the top 5 things that destroy skin collagen? Do topical estrogen creams or anti-glycation moisturizers actually work to restore collagen? How does daily resistance training exercise increase dermal skin thickness? 👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions [email protected] Connect with us: After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Dr Ellie Rashid: ⁠@drellierashid⁠ Dr Emma Craythorne: ⁠@dremmacraythorne⁠ TikTok: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ YouTube: ⁠After Hours Skin Clinic Channel⁠ This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Is social media helping your skin or making it worse? Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid expose how algorithms, fake experts, and viral trends are wrecking skin barriers. Drawing on the latest research presented at the British Association of Dermatologists meetings, Emma and Ellie examine the double-edged sword of online beauty culture. In this episode, they break down how mechanisms on social media are amplifying fake medical advice, how big skincare brands and high-end magazines inadvertently validate non-expert voices, and why the algorithm pushes controversial content to your feed. Plus, they explore a shocking new study connecting social media screen time to destroyed skin barriers, discuss the hyper-targeting of 13-year-olds with unnecessary active ingredients, and outline how consumers can verify real clinical expertise. Episode Highlights: The Three-Layer Misinformation Trap: Why engagement algorithms and exaggerated claims trick even savvy consumers. Brand & Media Endorsements: How major skincare brands and top magazines accidentally legitimize non-experts by failing to do basic due diligence. The Filter vs. Reality Gap: Decoding the psychological impact of invisible retouching tools alongside the positive rise of "skin realism" accounts. The 13-Year-Old TikTok Study: What happened when researchers analyzed the first 100 videos served to teenage accounts (and why 6+ active ingredients are wrecking skin barriers). The Screen-Time & Skin-Barrier Correlation: Shocking new clinical findings linking higher social media consumption directly to increased product purchases and worse acne/barrier damage. Reclaiming Digital Skin Health: The three pillars of responsibility required from creators, consumers, and social platforms to fix online medical advice. Key Questions Answered: How can I tell if someone offering skincare advice on TikTok or Instagram is a real dermatologist? Why using viral skincare products could be making your skin barrier worse instead of better Does social media screen time actually correlate with worse skin conditions like acne? 👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions [email protected] Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠ Connect with us: After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Is your monthly gel manicure damaging your skin and triggering hidden face allergies? From gel manicures causing mysterious eye eczema to the concerning rise of methacrylate allergies and the UK’s brand-new chemical ban on TPO, our nails are undergoing more clinical scrutiny than ever. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid lift the lid on the hidden risks hiding inside your monthly manicure routine and expose why cutting your cuticles is a recipe for permanent damage. In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the crucial anatomical role of the proximal nail fold (the 'true' cuticle), why DIY gel nail kits are driving a massive surge in contact allergies, and how un-cured acrylates can trigger reactions on your eyelids. Plus, they examine the UVA radiation emitted by gel curing lamps, the clinical rise of periungual warts, and practical steps to protect your hands without ditching your favorite gel polish. Episode Highlights: The Anatomy of a Nail: Why everyone confuses the proximal nail fold with the cuticle and why removing it breaks your nail’s waterproof seal. The UK TPO Chemical Ban: What the new restriction on Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide means for your nails. The Rise of Acrylate Allergies: How improperly cured home gel kits are causing severe contact dermatitis across the face and eyes. The Danger of Periungual Warts: How moisture traps and aggressive cuticle removal propagate stubborn viral infections around the nail. Eczema Awareness Connection: Why mysterious eyelid rashes are increasingly linked to nail polish and cosmetic glues. UVA Lamps & Skin Damage: Dermatologist-approved strategies (including UV-blocking gloves) to protect your hands during gel treatments. Key Questions Answered: Why should you tell your nail technician never to push back or cut your cuticles? Can using a DIY UV gel nail kit at home cause long-term skin allergies? How do gel nail chemicals cause allergic reactions around your eyes and face? Connect with us: After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram: @drellierashid Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram: @dremmacraythorne TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel 👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions [email protected] This is a Raconteur Studios Production. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Introduction: The UK Chemical Ban on TPO & Nail Health 02:26 - Cuticle Anatomy 101: The Protective Waterproof Seal 04:02 - The Real Danger of Cutting Cuticles (Rashes, Infections & Warts) 07:34 - The Rise of Gel Nail Acrylate Allergies & DIY UV Kits 13:13 - Why Gel Nail Allergies Show Up on Your Eyelids 13:50 - Eczema Awareness Month & Contact Dermatitis Triggers 14:00 - UVA Lamps & How Dermatologists Protect Their Hands 17:55 - UK ban on a chemical (TPO) used in nail hardening products 22:01 - Supplements for nail growth & surprising truth about biotin Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

From Jennifer Aniston’s peptide confessions to unregulated online vials sold for £5, teenagers asking for acne fixes, and DIY under-the-skin injections, peptides are e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on the worrying, unregulated world of injectable "longevity" peptides and separate real pharmaceutical science from social media hype. In this episode, Emma and Ellie break down what a peptide actually is, why GLP-1 weight-loss medications (like Ozempic and Mounjaro) have created a halo effect for unsafe knock-offs, and why DIY under-the-skin injections carry massive unmonitored risks. Plus, they examine the truth behind copper peptides (GHK-Cu), why that viral blue liquid injection might be a complete waste of money, and the startling results of clinical studies that the beauty industry ignores. Episode Highlights: The Jennifer Aniston Effect: How celebrity skincare confessions can fuel an unregulated online frenzy. What Is a Peptide? Deconstructing the science of amino acid chains, from essential insulin to GLP-1s. The Unregulated Black Market: Why £5 internet vials labeled "for research purposes only" are a health disaster waiting to happen. BPC-157 & Small Animal Studies: Why rat tendon research does not translate to human safety or skin rejuvenation. The Truth About Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Debunking the myths around wound healing, acne, wrinkles, and reversing gray hair. The "No Side Effects Reported" Trap: Why non-drug products lack mandatory reporting systems for adverse events. Topical vs. Injectable: Why that viral blue copper peptide serum looks pretty on TikTok but lacks solid clinical backing. Key Questions Answered: Are injectable peptides bought online safe or effective for skin aging and longevity? Do topical copper peptides (GHK-Cu) actually cure acne, reduce wrinkles, or stop gray hair? What is the difference between prescription GLP-1 peptides and unregulated DIY peptide vials? Want to learn more about peptides? Listen to our episode 'Peptides: What Are They, How Do They Work, and Should You Use Them?' on Apple, Spotify or YouTube. Connect with us: After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram: @drellierashid Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram: @dremmacraythorne TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic Listen on Spotify: After Hours Skin Clinic Listen on Apple Podcasts: After Hours Skin Clinic 👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions [email protected] This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Navigating skincare during pregnancy can feel like an overwhelming minefield of misinformation, fearmongering, and conflicting advice. This week on the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the latest clinical evidence to bring expectant mothers complete peace of mind. In this episode, Emma and Ellie run down a definitive A-to-Z list of popular skincare ingredients: from tretinoin, retinol, and hydroquinone to azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C. They explain the difference between localised skin application and systemic absorption, break down why you shouldn't panic if you used a retinoid before finding out you were pregnant, and share the exact ingredients dermatologists rely on to manage pregnancy acne, melasma, and rosacea safely. Episode Highlights: The Anxiety of Pregnancy Skincare: Why fear-based advice causes unnecessary stress and how science guides safe choices. Topical vs. Oral Retinoids: Why you should stop prescription tretinoin and why over-the-counter retinol are not advised, but why accidental use of topical retinoids isn't a reason to panic. The Hard No Ingredient: Why hydroquinone must be strictly avoided during pregnancy due to high systemic absorption into the bloodstream. Managing Hormonal Acne & Melasma Safely: Why azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and low-dose glycolic acid are dermatologist-approved pregnancy powerhouses. Navigating Acids & Bakuchiol: Understanding the safety thresholds for salicylic acid (2% limit) and the latest 2026 data on bakuchiol. Nipple Balms & Newborn Safety: The single evidence-backed ingredient safe for breastfeeding babies (and why it makes the ultimate lip balm). Key Questions Answered: What skincare ingredients are strictly unsafe to use during pregnancy? Is it safe to use salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or azelaic acid while pregnant? What should I do if I accidentally used a retinoid before realizing I was pregnant? Products Mentioned: Klira (Custom prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne) Lansinoh Lanolin Nipple Cream / Lip Balm Azelaic Acid (Topical treatment evaluated for pregnancy safety) Hydroquinone (Prescription agent strictly not advised in pregnancy) Benzoyl Peroxide (Topical antibacterial ingredient cleared for pregnancy) Salicylic Acid (up to 2%) & Glycolic Acid Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–15% at pH 2.5) Connect with us: After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel 👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions [email protected] This is a Raconteur Studios Production. ⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices