Eloïse Gilles: Bringing Hand Fans Back to Life

How do you bring a nearly forgotten object back into everyday life? In this episode of Compelling, Katy Wellesley-Wesley speaks with Eloïse Gilles, CEO and artistic director of Duvelleroy, about reviving the Parisian fan-making house founded in 1827. Eloïse traces her path from a childhood around art fairs and couture to brand strategy, and the chance encounter with a hand fan that led her and Raphaëlle Le Baud to the house’s extraordinary archives. She explains why finding customers proved easier than rebuilding the supply chain, and how a network of specialist ateliers helped turn early orders into a viable business. Their conversation ranges from runway collaborations and the distinction between couture and ready-to-wear fans to the challenges of growing without losing the handwork that gives each piece its character. Eloïse also shares plans for Duvelleroy’s 2027 bicentenary and her hopes for the next generation of fan-makers. (00:00) - Welcome to Compelling (03:27) - Art Fairs, Family and Early Influences (10:06) - Brand Identity and Discovering Craft (14:21) - Finding the Fan and Duvelleroy (18:26) - An Attic Full of Archives (22:40) - Rebuilding the Fan-Making Supply Chain (27:55) - Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Fashion Collaborations (34:32) - Growing a Market for Hand Fans (39:33) - The 2027 Bicentenary Exhibition (46:52) - Investment, Growth and Passing On Skills (50:04) - Creative Leadership and Learning to Fail (57:41) - A Dream Shop in the Countryside Eloïse Gilles: Eloïse Gilles is CEO and artistic director of Duvelleroy, the Parisian fan-making house founded in 1827. With a background in literature, business and brand identity, she helped revive the house in 2010 with Raphaëlle Le Baud and its archive holder, Michel Maignan. Her work brings historical designs and specialist craft into contemporary fashion and interiors. In 2026, FEDORA featured Eloïse in its ambassador series, discussing her interest in connecting fan-making with opera and dance.Katy Wellesley Wesley: With over 18 years of leadership across galleries, foundations, and startups, Katy has built a career shaped by curiosity and a drive to explore new ideas. She spent a decade at leading commercial galleries—first at Gagosian, then at Pace, where she was Director of Exhibitions in London. She went on to lead the Villa Lena Foundation in Italy as Director, before joining the founding team of ROKBOX, a pioneering environmentally focused art logistics startup, as Sales Director. After relocating to Paris seven years ago, Katy developed a strong interest in the intersection of art and luxury. She now works as a consultant to brands, artists, foundations, and collectors. Art direction by Eddie Harrop Studio Website and Production by Story Ninety-Four In partnership with Cahiers D'art