The Marché des Enfants Rouges: The Oldest Market in Paris and the Night It Burned

At 39 Rue de Bretagne in the Marais, behind an old iron gate, stood the oldest covered market in Paris: Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, established in 1615 under Louis XIII. A thousand square metres of fresh produce, cheese counters, florists and food stalls serving Moroccan couscous, Japanese bento, Lebanese specialities and a sandwich counter with queues stretching into the street. Listed as a historical monument in 1982, and ranked by Food and Wine magazine this year as the fifth greatest street food destination in the world. In the early hours of Monday the 12th of October 2026, it burned to the ground. This episode tells the full 411-year story: a market named for the orphans of a nearby hospice who wore red, the uniform colour of Christian charity; a neighbourhood that survived the French Revolution, two world wars and the decline of traditional markets; and a 1994 threat to demolish the site for a multi-storey car park, defeated by a residents' campaign backed by film director Bertrand Tavernier. We trace its 2000 reopening as a genuine crossroads of cuisines, and the recognition that followed, including a memorable visit from Anthony Bourdain in 2012. We also cover what's known about the fire itself: when it started, how quickly it spread, the fire brigade's assessment of the damage, and what the city of Paris has committed to for the displaced traders while the investigation into its cause continues and decisions are made about the market's historic protected status. Fabulously Delicious is the podcast for anyone who loves French food, French culinary history and the stories behind the plates. If this episode moved you, a rating and review makes a real difference to how many people find the show. New episodes are also on YouTube and Instagram, and there's more on Substack if you want to go further. As Fabulously Delicious steps into its sixth year, one thing is clearer than ever: five years of French food culture has taught Andrew that the subject is genuinely inexhaustible. My book Paris: A Fabulous Food Guide to the World’s Most Delicious City is your ultimate companion. This is a new 2026 update for the book and you’ll find hand-picked recommendations for the best boulangeries, patisseries, wine bars, cafés, and restaurants that truly capture the flavor of Paris. You can order it online at ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠andrewpriorfabulously.com⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠  You can help keep the show thriving by becoming a paid subscriber on substack where you'll also get fabulous extra content. Every contribution makes a huge difference. Join here at ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Substack ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Merci beaucoup! ⁠Instagram⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Newsletter⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠Youtube⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Facebook⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠Website ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠