The Surprisingly Messy History of Mayonnaise

Mayonnaise is the world's most popular sauce, but nobody agrees on who invented it. This episode traces the history of mayonnaise from a Spanish port battle to a Paris pharmacist's ointment. Caroline and Emily examine the competing French origin stories, the codification of the sauce by Antonin Careme's critics, and how mustard, eggs, and oil became the modern formula loved and hated worldwide. Podcast Show Notes In this episode: • The legend of the Duke of Richelieu inventing mayonnaise at Port Mahon in 1756 • Competing 18th and 19th century spellings, bayonnaise, mahonnaise, and mayonnaise • The Duke of Mayenne's 16th century version and its unfortunate ending • Antonin Careme's attempt to codify the correct spelling and origin • Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq's theory that Paris perfected the sauce • Andre Viard's early recipes, including a mayonnaise made with veal brains • Why French cuisine names dishes after their texture, and English rarely does • How to make mayonnaise from scratch with egg yolk, mustard, and oil • French idioms built around mayonnaise, including "faire monter la mayonnaise" • Global mayonnaise culture, from Japanese Kewpie mayo to wartime chocolate cake Key Takeaways • Mayonnaise's true origin is disputed between French and Spanish claims. • The Duke of Richelieu legend places the sauce's invention at Port Mahon in 1756. • Andre Viard's cookbook contains the earliest known recipe resembling mayonnaise, thickened with egg. • Antonin Careme argued the sauce should be called "magonnaise," from the French verb "manier." • Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq traces mayonnaise's roots to medieval pharmacists' egg and oil ointments. • Traditional American mayonnaise contains no mustard, while French mayonnaise almost always does. • Japan's Kewpie mayonnaise originated in 1925 after a Ministry of Agriculture intern encountered mayo in the UK. • Homemade mayonnaise is made by whisking egg yolk with mustard while slowly adding oil.