(289) Feasts, Forks, and the Florentine Drama

Welcome to the table of the 15th and 16th centuries. Pull up a chair. Try not to use your fork too conspicuously. If you wanted to understand power in Renaissance Florence, you did not study the ledgers of the Medici bank — you watched what they served at dinner. The Medici family, who essentially ran Florence for much of the 15th and 16th centuries while technically just being very enthusiastic “private citizens,” understood that a banquet was an announcement. When Lorenzo de’ Medici — known to history as “il Magnifico,” a nickname he absolutely would have had printed on business cards if such things existed — hosted a feast, the guest list, the seating arrangement, the number of courses, and the theatrical extravagance of each dish told visiting dignitaries everything they needed to know about where they stood in the pecking order. These were not modest affairs. A typical Medici banquet could span dozens of courses across several hours, featuring roasted meats gilded with actual gold leaf, elaborate sugar sculptures called trionfi (triumphs) depicting mythological scenes, and live animals sometimes concealed inside pies that would burst open at the table — a culinary surprise that, depending on one’s temperament, was either delightful or deeply alarming. The historian Platina, who wrote the first printed cookbook in 1474, described such spectacles as demonstrations of “magnificence,” a term that carried genuine moral weight in Renaissance thought. To feast well and generously was not self-indulgence; it was civic virtue. Lorenzo de’ Medici likely agreed with this interpretation wholeheartedly and was certainly not biased. In 1570, Bartolomeo Scappi published a cookbook so comprehensive, so detailed, and so ahead of its time that food historians still reach for superlatives when describing it. His Opera dell'arte del cucinare — The Works of the Art of Cooking — ran to over a thousand recipes, included the first known illustration of a kitchen fork, and offered guidance on everything from roasting a whole ox to preparing food for invalids. Scappi was the personal chef to Pope Pius IV and later to Pope Pius V, meaning he was, in effect, cooking for the spiritual leader of Christendom. This fact must have made seasoning decisions feel particularly consequential. Full Content on More Podcasts