Gastronomics

Alex Mayyasi

Status-Symbol Beef, Reservation Wars, and the Rise of Chicken Thighs

OCT 14, 202646 MIN

Description

How a weak yen made Japanese beef the new truffle. Plus the fall and rise of chicken thighs and a food fight between credit card companies that's making it impossible to get dinner reservations. With guest Adam Chandler of the WSJ. Show Notes Adam Chandler's WSJ articles are available at https://www.wsj.com/news/author/adam-chandler "What the Rise of Chicken Thighs Says About America," Adam Chandler, WSJ, March 19, 2026 https://www.wsj.com/arts-culture/food-cooking/chicken-thighs-popularity-rise-27b5b355 "Reservation Apps Have Made Getting Into a Restaurant a Nightmare," Adam Chandler and Heather Haddon, WSJ, August 8, 2026 https://www.wsj.com/business/restaurant-reservation-apps-30a29e6b "How Wagyu, Japan's Prized Beef, Took Over America," Adam Chandler, WSJ, August 22, 2206 https://www.wsj.com/arts-culture/food-cooking/how-wagyu-japans-prized-beef-took-over-america-20546680 "Japan's Beef With a Weak Yen: The Best Wagyu Is Just for the Tourists," Miho Inada, WSJ, May 18, 2024 https://www.wsj.com/world/asia/japans-beef-with-a-weak-yen-the-best-wagyu-is-just-for-the-tourists-42be2a7b "'Wagyu' Used to Guarantee Quality Beef. What Are You Paying for Today?" Tejal Rao, NYT, April 21, 2026 https://www.nytimes.com/2026/04/21/dining/wagyu-beef.html "Caviar 'Bumps' Are All the Rage," Alyson Krueger, NYT, June 7, 2022 https://www.nytimes.com/2022/06/07/style/caviar-bump.html Drive-Thru Dreams: A Journey Through the Heart of America's Fast-Food Kingdom by Adam Chandler https://www.adamchandler.com/drive-thru-dreams "Mass Psychosis in Food Science: Americans happily ate monosodium glutamate for decades, but one (fake?) letter sparked mass hysteria and the bogus MSG scare was born." Sam Kean, The Disappearing Spoon, November 7, 2023 https://www.sciencehistory.org/stories/disappearing-pod/mass-psychosis-in-food-science/ Heather Haddon's WSJ articles https://www.wsj.com/news/author/heather-haddon