Creams and Emulsions (Pt.1): From Galen to Nivea and The Surprising History of Cream

Send us Fan Mail A cream looks like the most ordinary thing in your bathroom: white, soft, familiar, a little boring. But I'm here to tell you it's the single most sophisticated structure in all of skincare, and the hardest thing a formulator can make. Why? Because a cream persuades two ingredients that genuinely refuse to coexist — oil and water — to live together, stay stable, feel beautiful, resist microbes, and keep working from the first pump to the last. In Part 1 of this two-part episode, I take you all the way back to Galen of Pergamon, the Greek physician who created the very first cream 2,000 years ago, through medieval cooling creams, to the industrial revolution of Nivea and Pond's. I explain what an emulsion actually is (think salad dressing that refuses to separate), why "oil in water" versus "water in oil" matters, why a cream can contain 70% water and still be rich, and why your lightweight cream might protect you in winter just as well as a heavy one. Myths busted, history told, and science made simple. Episode resources: The oldest cold cream: A skincare formula that survived for more than 2000 years An old eponym honoring Galen and his cold cream Cold protecting ointments and frostbite. A questionnaire study of 830 conscripts in Finland Learn more from the previous episodes:  The Most Misunderstood Ingredient in Skincare: Water Shop the skincare we talked about today: Derma-Fill - Prebiotic moisturizer for all skin types Lumino-Derm - Skin brightening cream Blepharo-Light - Eye cream for dark circles and puffiness Connect with us: Meder by Dr. Tiina Meder Meder Beauty Instagram Meder Beauty Facebook Meder Beauty TikTok Meder Beauty LinkedIn Meder Beauty YouTube Listen to the Meder Beauty Podcast on Apple Podcasts