The Cost of Three Michelin Stars | Rudolph Chelminski

This is a Vintage episode from 2005. Why This Episode Matters Earning three Michelin stars is a triumph. Keeping them brings financial commitments, public scrutiny, and relentless pressure. Rudolph Chelminski knew Bernard Loiseau for decades and offers a personal view of the ambition behind his extraordinary career. As they prepare to open Catherine Lombardi, Mark and Francis share their own concerns about expansion and protecting an established restaurant’s reputation. Recorded before Michelin’s first NYC guide, this conversation captures the Guys debating whether any New York restaurant would earn three stars. The Banter Francis catches jazz singer Jacqui Naylor at the Blue Note, and the Guys explain why they love going out during the week. Charlie Trotter’s canceled New York restaurant prompts a discussion about expansion, expense, scrutiny, and their own preparations to open Catherine Lombardi while maintaining standards at Stage Left. The Conversation What does it take to earn three Michelin stars and what does keeping them demand? Journalist Rudolph Chelminski joins Mark and Francis to discuss The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine, his biography of French chef Bernard Loiseau. Having known Loiseau for decades, Chelminski shares the ambition, energy, and self-doubt behind his rise to the pinnacle of French dining. From an apprenticeship with the Troisgros brothers to taking his restaurant company public, Loiseau built a remarkable career. The conversation explores exhaustion, public scrutiny, and the financial and personal pressures surrounding him before his death in 2003.  There’s also a discussion of professional service, finding value at lunch in great French restaurants, and the expense of maintaining an exceptional dining experience. Afterward, Mark and Francis make competing predictions about whether any New York restaurant will receive three stars when Michelin’s first NYC guide arrives. Mark’s prediction proves correct: Per Se receives three stars in Michelin’s inaugural New York City guide. Guest Bio Rudolph Chelminski is a journalist and author whose work has appeared in Life, Time, and The Atlantic Monthly. His books include The French at Table and The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine. Timestamps 00:00 — Jazz, Manhattans, and going out during the week 05:00 — Charlie Trotter, expansion, and opening Catherine Lombardi 07:00 — Bernard Loiseau and the pressure of public scrutiny 12:00 — Understanding Michelin’s star system 18:00 — Apprenticeship and the ambition to earn three stars 23:00 — Professional service, lunch bargains, and three-star expenses 29:00 — Michelin’s influence and predictions for New York City Info Rudolph’s book The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine The Michelin Guide https://guide.michelin.com/ Jacqui Naylor https://jacquinaylor.com/wp/ Oct 26-31 - Spooky Bar at Stage Left Steak  https://www.stageleft.com/event/spooky-bar-1026-1031/ Oct 27, Tuesday - Robert Simonson book signing cocktail party More info - https://www.stageleft.com/events/  Subscribe: Restaurant Guys' Regular https://restaurantguysregulars.buzzsprout.com/ Magyar Bank https://www.magbank.com/ Stage Left Wine Shop https://www.stageleftwineshop.com/ Our Places Stage Left Steak https://www.stageleft.com/ Catherine Lombardi Restaurant https://www.catherinelombardi.com/ Stage Left Wineshop https://www.stageleftwineshop.com/ Reach Out to The Guys! [email protected]