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Truly Expat Travel
Paula Barnes
Nepal Beyond Everest: The Hidden Himalayas Your Guide Doesn't Want You to Miss
SEP 8, 202630 MIN
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Description
Everyone knows Everest. But Nepal has over 6,000 peaks near 6,000 metres — and most of them have never been climbed. This week, third-generation mountain guide and CEO of Everest Holiday, Shreejan Simkhada (call him Joe), takes us off the tourist trail and into the Nepal that most people never see.
From a 1,300-year-old monastery in Upper Mustang to a Christian village tucked into a Buddhist valley at 4,000 metres near the Tibet border — this episode will completely change how you think about the Himalayas.
In This Episode
The trekking routes Joe actually recommends — and why he steers people away from the crowded ones
Upper Mustang: the last piece of free Tibet, and why you might have 10 years left to see it as it is
Short treks for time-limited travellers (4 days to 10 days)
Best and worst seasons — and what the rainy season rule change means for you
Wildlife, safaris, paragliding, rafting, and 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in one city
The solo trekking rule that just changed
How to do Everest Base Camp on a budget — and what luxury looks like
Joe's one piece of advice before you book
About Joe & Everest Holiday
Shreejan Simkhada — Joe — is a third-generation tourism entrepreneur from Nepal, a practicing Kagyu Buddhist, and the CEO of Everest Holiday. His family has been in the industry for decades. Joe operates treks, climbs and tours across Nepal, India, Tibet and Bhutan, with a strong focus on social charity: his travel work began as a way to fund and support his charity projects on the ground.
Recommended Routes (Beyond Everest)
Off the beaten track:
Upper Dolpa — remote, raw, one of Joe's top picks
Upper Mustang — the last preserved piece of free Tibet; still a restricted area, 10-day packages, accessible by road but see it soon before roads change it forever
Ruby Valley — Joe's personal favourite; Buddhist and Hindu villages that became Christian, waterfalls in every direction in the wet season, 8–10 days
Kanchanjunga — a major trail that almost no one does; Joe calls it "amazing"
Rara lake & Jumla — stunning and deeply undervisited
Makalu — unique landscape, worth it for those who want something different
Great Himalayan Trail (GST) — one of the longest trekking routes in the world
For shorter trips:
Langtang Valley to Kyanjin Gompa — 7–8 days, beautiful mountain views, manageable for most fitness levels
Gosaikunda Lake Trek — 4–5 days, walk along a ridge to a lake at altitude; still in the main area but underrecognised
Ruby Valley — 8–10 days, cultural richness plus the landscape
Upper Mustang: Why It Matters
Upper Mustang was restricted to outsiders until the 1990s and required a $500/day permit (minimum two people, so $1,000 minimum) until recently. Permits are now $50/day and solo travellers are permitted. It is home to Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in existence (1,300–1,400 years old), caves where yogis and masters have meditated for thousands of years, and a landscape unlike anywhere else — a cold desert with the Himalayas rising behind you. Joe describes it as a pilgrimage. Roads are now reaching the region, and he believes it has about 10 years left before it changes irrevocably.
Nepal Beyond the Mountains
Nepal is 147,000 square kilometres. It has:
7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu alone
The birthplace of the Buddha (Lumbini)
Thousands of Hindu and Buddhist temples
Chitwan National Park — jungle safari (Everest Holiday does not offer elephant rides on ethical grounds); 2–3 day packages available
Bardia National Park — the place to go if you want to see Bengal tigers in the wild
Paragliding, bungee jumping, white-water rafting
A photography tour option for wildlife
Even a hunting reserve (Joe doesn't operate it, but it exists)
The Golden Triangle: Kathmandu → Pokhara → Chitwan → Lumbini — 10–15 days, no trekking required, covers the highlights of Nepal's culture and wildlife.
You can now drive to Upper Mustang — no trekking required.
Joe's tips:
Start walking stairs up and down before you arrive — that's the main training you need
Bring hiking poles — essential for the knees on the descent
Follow the acclimatisation schedule, no matter how fit you are
A guide is required in restricted areas and strongly recommended everywhere else
Solo Trekking — What Changed
Nepal recently changed its rules. Previously, restricted areas required a minimum of two people. Now solo travellers can enter restricted areas. You still need a licensed guide, permit, and insurance — but the two-person minimum is gone. This opens up Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpa to solo travellers for the first time.
Practical Info
Getting there: Fly into Kathmandu (TIA). Some routes require onward domestic flights.
Guides: Required in restricted areas; strongly recommended everywhere. Joe's company connects you with experienced, vetted guides — including a former monk who has worked with his family for 40 years.
Poles: Yes, bring them or rent them — especially for the descent
Cold: Don't underestimate altitude temperatures. Layers are essential.
Heat: If you're doing jungle safaris, pack for tropical heat — it's a very different Nepal down in Chitwan
Contact Joe
Website: theeverestholiday.com
WhatsApp: +977 981 035 1300
Instagram: The Everest Holiday
Youtube: The Everest Holiday
Facebook: The Everest Holiday
This post contains affiliate links. If you book through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — it helps keep the podcast going. Thank you!
Related Episodes
Want more on the Himalayas? Go back to Season 1 Episode 2 where Paula's husband — a climber himself — talks about Everest and what draws people to the world's highest peak. A great companion listen to this episode.
Enjoyed this episode? Subscribe to the Truly Expat Travel Podcast on Apple Podcasts and Spotify and leave a review — it helps other travellers find the show.
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