<description>A new book looks beyond the hype to chronicle the effect of an unsustainable boom on the entire quinoa trade in Peru</description>

Eat This Podcast

Jeremy Cherfas

Quinoa’s rise and fall

MAR 17, 202529 MIN
Eat This Podcast

Quinoa’s rise and fall

MAR 17, 202529 MIN

Description

Quinoa growing in the foreground with steep mountains behind. In the sky above the valley is a graph of the price of quinoa

Portrait of a young woman with shoulder-length light brown hair. She is wearing a dark round-necked top and a necklace.
Emma McDonnell
For most of the 2000s, farmers in Peru earned a little more than one sol per kilogram of unprocessed quinoa they sold. Starting around 2007, the price began to climb as quinoa exports became a thing, averaging 9 soles per kg in 2014. The following year, the price halved, and it dropped again in 2016. It’s still around 4 soles per kg, so a lot better than it was, and quinoa production is double what it was. Nevertheless, the early promise of a sustained quinoa boom proved to be an illusion.

Emma McDonnell was in Peru for the early years of the boom and for the subsequent bust, a story she recounts in her book The Quinoa Bust.

Notes

  1. Emma McDonnell has a website. Her book The Quinoa Bust: The Making and Unmaking of an Andean Miracle Crop is published by California University Press.
  2. A previous episode — It is OK to eat quinoa — looked at the impact of the boom in purely economic terms.
  3. An issue of the USDA’s Choices magazine looked at several so-called functional foods, including quinoa, asking whether they were a Fad or Path to Prosperity?. Both, maybe.
  4. Here is the transcript
  5. The banner photo uses a picture of quinoa growing in Ollantaytambo, Peru by Hector Montero. The quinoa close up on the cover is by Flickered!

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