Eat This Podcast
Eat This Podcast

Eat This Podcast

Jeremy Cherfas

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Using food to explore all manner of topics, from agriculture to zoology. Eat This Podcast tries to go beyond the obvious to see how the food we eat influences and is influenced by history, archaeology, trade, chemistry, economics, geography, evolution, religion — you get the picture. We don’t do recipes, except when we do, or restaurant reviews, ditto. We do offer an eclectic smorgasbord of tasty topics.

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Food, folklore and St Brigid
FEB 3, 2025
Food, folklore and St Brigid

Five different St Brigid crosses

An icon of St Brigid wearing a blue cloak and with symbols of food and farming

St Brigid of Kildare is one of the three patron saints of Ireland and has a strong connection with food and farming. St Brigid’s day falls on 1 February and traditionally marks the beginning of spring and the start of the agricultural year.

In 2023, the Republic of Ireland designated the day a public holiday if it falls on a Friday, and failing that the first Monday of February, but the day has long been celebrated in a variety of ways. People make St Brigid’s crosses to a variety of traditional designs, using them to protect farm animals and ensure a good harvest. There are special foods too, and other ritual celebrations, some of which delve in the pagan past.

Caitríona Nic Philibin has studied the folklore surrounding St Brigid and shared some of the stories with me.

Notes

  1. I am indebted to Caitríona Nic Philibin and Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire for their work on food and folklore in Ireland, and especially An exploratory study of food traditions associated with Imbolg (St. Brigid’s Day) from The Irish Schools’ Folklore Collection. They offered a summary of their work: What food is associated with St Brigid’s Day?. And Pishogues, Brídeogs And Butter Witches at The Common Table gives a great deal more detail on food and folklore in Ireland.
  2. The music at the start is from St. Brigid’s Jig by Louise Mulcahy. Another fine tune from the same set is St. Brigid’s Day by Caitlín Nic Gabhann.
  3. Images of St Brigid’s crosses from the National Museum of Ireland. The icon of St Brigid I lifted from The Brigidine Sisters.
  4. Here is the transcript.

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17 MIN
Sensual, Salty, and a Little Bit Spicy
DEC 23, 2024
Sensual, Salty, and a Little Bit Spicy

Two Gilda pintxos with a long green pepper, a glistening anchovy and a green olive skewered on a long toothpick in a wooden block, against a black background.

Still life with anchovies by Antonio Sicurezza. A pile of silvery anchovies on a yellow table with a frying pan in the top right corner and some garlic bottom right.No apologies for once again casting my net in the fruitful waters of Basque cuisine and history.

There is a pintxo — those tasty bites of stuff on a toothpick — that consists of a plump Cantabrian anchovy, a pickled guindilla pepper and an olive. Some people reckon it is the original pintxo, invented by one of the regulars at a bar in San Sebastián. Others are not so sure. Everyone agrees, however, that it owes its name — the Gilda — to Rita Hayworth, who starred in the movie of that name.

Last time I spoke to Marcela Garcés, we didn’t have time to talk about the Gilda. This episode fixes that omission.

A graphic print of Rita Hayworth as Gilda, holding a piparra pepper above her head, by Javier Aramburu

I also had to contact Chris Beckman again, to see if he could enlighten me on what he calls the Swedish Anchovy Conundrum.

Notes

  1. Here, again, is Marcela Garcés’ paper: In Defense of the Anchovy: Creating New Culinary Memories through Applied Cultural Context.
  2. Christopher Beckman’s book is A Twist in the Tail: How the Humble Anchovy Flavoured Western Cuisine.
  3. What’s in a name? Mislabeling fish since the 16th century offers more information of the history of Swedish “anchovies”.
  4. Here is the transcript.
  5. Still Life with Anchovies by Antonio Sicurezza. Piparra for Gilda by Javier Aramburu, and thanks to Marcela for the photo. I’d love to credit the photographer of the cover and banner image, but none of the places where I might have stolen it saw fit to give credit. If it is yours, let me know.

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17 MIN